NAZA H Control System Install

I will be using my electric converted Hirobo SDX as my test heli for the NAZA H control system. I picked this heli because it has always flown good, and now it's electric so it's nice and smooth too. It's also the only pod-n-boom heli I have other than my Radikal Gasser, and the NAZA is not spec'd for gassers.

Below you can view my SDX in it's current flying state. I have approx 250 plus flights on this heli. It is a very nice flying machine and should make a great test platform for the NAZA.

As you will read in the next section, my first flight tests did not end well. Click the next link to see the results, and read my crash theory. I have since flown and it is working great. Read on to find out.

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Here is my SDX in it's newly converted electric flight state.

The JR7703D gyro has served me very well in all my flights. It will no longer be needed.

The new flight control system, NAZA H.

The parts you find in the NAZA box. GPS antenna and extension cable,

NAZA H controller, mounting tape, and signal wires,

USB cable, BEC regulator, and LED status with USB interface, and extension cable.

Here I have rerouted the servo leads so I don't have to extend them.

Here I am getting ready to make an rudder servo extention. It's nice to have

the parts and tools needed when doing these type of installs. I can make the

cable the exact length needed.

I put heatshrink over the connection to prevent it from coming loose.

Just a photo of work in progress. Guess I was trigger happy.

Here is a plexy mount I have made for the NAZA. This will mount between the side frames

and be as close to the main shaft as possible. Follow instructions for mounting.

You can see I used the supplied mounting tape and added a small velcro strap.

Now I am making the same type of mounting plate for the receiver.

This plate is a little thinner than the NAZA plate. Not that either will ever flex,

but I figured the NAZA plate should be the strongest of the two.

Here I had to drill four mounting holes in the side frames to mount the NAZA.

Here is the spot I chose for the NAZA GPS ant. The instructions tell you to mount it 30cm

from electric motors, 20cm from servos, and not near the main rotor mast. Hope this is

a good location. Testing and time will tell.

I decided to mount the status LED/USB interface in the tail. This should be

easy to see, and I have a brain block that almost always has me hovering with

the nose pointed towards my left side. So this works for me.

Pick a good spot for the BEC regulator. I chose the stbd side of the heli

because I already have stuff on the other side, and I wanted this out in

the open to get airflow for cooling if needed. I use double faced tape

and a tie wrap to secure it.

You can see my wire routing for the swash and tail servos. I use

expandable sleeving for protecting the wires from getting cut or nicked.

The wiring for the GPS and status LED are tied to the tail boom using velcro

and some of the built in retainers used to hold the rudder control cable.

I also used a rubber band to hold the extension cables in place. The cables

did not provide a positive lock and I was not getting a good vibe that they

would stay connected. This is something I will ask DJI to address as I feel it should be better.

Here I am just making sure no wires touch the motor. The next photo shows

a velcro strap being used to hold the wires out of harms way. I like velcro because

it is softer than using a tie wrap.

Here it is all ready to go. Just need to calibrate the GPS and then fly it.

I have reused an old camera mount for my Venom camera to give

a pilots eye view. Hope it works through the smoked windshield.

Some of the tools needed to do this work.

Here is a servo controller I use to control servos. It gives you min., neutral, and max travel.

I used it to figure out which servo wire was what on the swash after they all came out of the

protective sleeving. Just connect the servo, push a button and see which one moves. Then it

could be connected to the NAZA in the correct location. You can find more information on this

device from

Here are some other tools needed for making your own parts.

A Metric Tap & Die set from 1mm - 2.5mm,

and a drill bit set from 1mm to 6mm in 0.1mm steps.

Stay tuned for more as I recover from New Years, ouch my head!!!

Click next to read about my first test flights and failure, bummer.

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