My NAZA Setup and Configuration

 
Here I will go through my current setup and configuration using the NAZA Assistant software. Your exact settings will probably be different, especially if you are using a different radio system. Most of the setup was fairly straight foreward. My biggest problem was the Feedback section (which is why my heli crashed the first time). Now I understand what they want us users to do and see on that step. Hopefully this will help you understand before you have a problem or crash. 
 
I am not going to go over loading and setting up the software on your computer. Too many variables there. For me it worked as instructed the first time. Hopefully yours will also.
 
NOTE: My radio is a JR9303. I will be shooting some better photos of the transmitter. My lighting was very bad and so are the photos because of it. Hopefully you can se them well enough to figure it out.
 
 
 So we all start at the Common screen when the software loads. You can move your transmitter sticks to see all the Channel monitors sliders move. You can also see your battery and system voltages, and what the current system setup is configured to. I did not show the Advanced tab here because I have not done or changed anything of the default settings for my setup. Yours may vary. Next you click on the Setup tab to get started.
 
The first thing is to start with a new model. Give it a name, set the swash to 1-servo (Norm). Model type should be heli. ext go to the Device Select screen.
Set the F. MOD to GEAR SW. Then go through and copy the rest of the switch settings as shown in the photo.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Here you set all servo direction controls to Norm except Aux2 should be Rev.
 
 
 You should have the LED, GPS, and voltage regulator connected now as shown. Do not connect any power yet...  Next you click the Start button.
 
Now you select the type of receiver you are using. D-Bus is the same as SBus. Then connect your wiring as shown. 
 
 This part took me a while to figure out. I didn't know how to translate the Futaba settings to my radio, so I set this up just like my Hexcopter. I use the Aux2 switch to control which flight mode I'm using, and I use the Gear channel to put the system into failsafe. If you are using a JR9303 or maybe even JR9503, and you want your setup like mine, you can copy the transmitter setup as shown in the next photos. Then you should be able to switch between all three modes and failsafe with two switches on your Tx. 
 
There are three areas you need to setup for this section. 1) Sub trims, 2) Mix2, and 3) Travel Adj.  Use the following photos to set your transmitter settings.
Set Aux2 sub trim to -10. Set the mix2 point 0 to -50, point 3 to 0, and point 6 to 0.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
All settings are defaulted to 100%. You only need to change Aux2. Set it to +82%, and -84%.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Now that all that fun is over we move on to calibrating the controller to the transmitter stick outputs. Just follow the instructions. I centered my throttle stick before hitting Finish. This may not matter, but it's what I did.
 
Here you are telling the controller which way it's facing.It needs to know front from back, left from right, and also whether it's mounted above or below the tail boom.
You can see my settings for where my stuff is mounted. If you go back to my install page it may help make sense. 
 
The Advanced setting is a little confusing in my opinion. I have my NAZA (IMU) mounted approx 10cm below the tail boom, but I have a positive number entered. So basically, if your NAZA is below the tail boom you will enter a positive number, if it's above your number will be negative. eemed backwards to me at first, but after thinking about it a bit it does make sense. My 'Y' values are all zero because I have everything mounted on the center line of the heli. If you mount your NAZA to one side or the other you will need to enter a (+) or (-) value instead. 
 
 Petty simple here. Pick which way your rotor turns, and if you have a flybar or not.
 
 Here you select which type of control layout you have. It is refereing to where the connection points are on the swash plate, not where the servos are. Be aware of this.
 
 In the Swash Advanced tab you select your servo type, pretty simple. You can also setup for phase angles for multi rotor bladed heads (3 or more blades). If you have a standard two blade head you will leave this value at zero.
 
 Again very simple. All you are doing is getting the collective pitch control setup correctly. Nothing else matters right now.
 
You should always try to get your mechanical setup as close to perfect as you can before you adjust these trims. These trims are basically the same as the sub-trim in your transmitter. The closer to zero the better. You can see I needed a little. I was not able to get my values to zero without using turnbuckles in stead of normal control rods. With turnbuckles you can set the control length to an exact value. With normal threaded rod you can only do one half turn as the smallest movement. This is an area where you may want to test fly after setting to see how well the heli holds position. Then you can decide if you need to fine tune to more perfection or not. 
 
Now you will setup the correct travel direction for cyclic control. You also setup the maximum collective pitch value. You should also make sure the swash does not hit or bind when the cyclic stick is at the extremes, and the collective pitch is at min and max travels. 
 
 Now we are setting up the collective pitch range. Again you should mechanically be as close to zero pitch as you can. Then use the slider to fine tune. See photo below.
(Photo to be added soon) 
 
Then click on the measure button and set your pitch based on heli size. I am using 7 degrees. My pitch guage was acting up for the photo below, but you should get the idea. 
 (Photo to be added soon)
 
Here you set up your tail servo travel, direction, and type of servo. Make sure you select the correct servo type or your servo can be destroyed.
 
The next screen shot is how I control the gyro gain using my F.MOD switch. You would adjust the points 0 - 6 to set the desired gain at each flight mode switch position.
Here I am using the same gain for my Normal, Stunt 1, and Stunt 2 positions. This is because my throttle curve is pretty much the same for all flight modes.
 
 
The Feedback Section
This was the section that screwed me up and caused me to crash. So this is what you should be seeing as you press each test section.
1) Top left photo: Main blades should go to positive pitch, then negative pitch, then to zero pitch.
2) Top right photo: Swash plate should tilt forward, then backwards, then back to neutral.
3) Bottom left photo: Swash should tilt left, then right, then back to neutral.
4) Bottom right photo: Tail blades should pitch to make the nose turn left, then turn right, then back to center.
You will need to know based your heli setup which way the blades should pitch to give a left or right turn.
 
If any of those movements are not correct you must select Normal or Reverse to correct it. DO NOT FLY IF NOT CORRECT. YOU WILL CRASH!!!
 
 
After you click Finish you will see this screen. You will need to follow the directions on how to calibrater the GPS. The tail gyro is a little trail and error testing. See below for setting the gyro gain if you have copied my setup. If you have not copied me you will have to figure this out for yourself.